Walking the West Highland Way
Trying to avoid ghosts in a (possibly) haunted 1705 stone inn. Singing ‘The Bonnie Banks of Loch Lomond’ as the 153km-long loch first came into view. Gazing upon majestic Munros (Scottish mountains over 914.4 metres) near a fireplace in the recently reimagined Kingshouse Hotel, a place of refuge since the 1750s. Escaping an imminent downpour with a whisky tasting and tour at Glengoyne Distillery, a short stroll off the trail. Ambling for hours each day beside lochs, bens (hills), and Munros, through glens and wild moorlands, beneath rainbows, and past the UK’s highest mountain, 1345-metre Ben Nevis. And, in the evening, rewarding efforts with a steamy bowl of Cullen skink and a wee dram.
These are some highlights of the 154km West Highland Way, Scotland’s most famous long-distance walk, which I completed over eight days this past October (towards the end of the typical walking season and a lovely time to go).
The route – which opened in October 1980 and uses former drove roads, military roads built to help control the Jacobite clans, old coaching roads, and disused railway lines – begins in Milngavie (a 25-minutes train journey from Glasgow) and ventures northwest from the Lowlands into the Highlands. From Fort William, where the Way ends, a scenic, three-hour train ride delivers you back to Glasgow.
Hiking towards Kingshouse Hotel and Glencoe along the West Highland Way
I’d been yearning to set out on this adventure for 25 years, ever since a friend and I had a wee taste of it. From Edinburgh (which we were visiting for the Edinburgh Fringe Festival), we joined a day tour to Glencoe. But instead of returning to Edinburgh that afternoon, we asked the tour operator to drop us off along the West Highland Way so we could hike a bit, overnight somewhere along the route, and then make our way back to Edinburgh via public transport. I can’t remember exactly where the operator left us in Glencoe, how far we walked, or where exactly we stayed (though I do recall a barn-like hostel and a cosy nearby pub with live music). I do remember, though, that the views of Glencoe and these limited footsteps made me dream of returning one day to walk the West Highland Way in its entirety.
All these years later, the stars (including musical ones) aligned, and I took the opportunity to realise that dream. (And in a comfortable fashion, with AMS Scotland transferring my luggage between each night's accommodation.) I'm certain that having dreamed of walking this trail for so long made the experience all the sweeter.
The following video gives an account of my eight-day journey, including where we paused each evening (Drymen, Rowardennan, Inverarnan/Drovers Inn, Tyndrum, Inveroran Hotel, Kingshouse Hotel, Kinlochleven, Fort William). I also believe it captures some of the beauty and joyfulness of the experience.
Wishing you a wonderful West Highland Way hike one day, too!
I travelled with the much-appreciated assistance of Visit Scotland, Visit Britain, and AMS Scotland.
For route planning when lockdown restrictions have been lifted, check out westhighlandway.org and Walkhighlands.