In time for turtles: Lady Elliot Island
On the 35-minute flight from Hervey Bay to Lady Elliot Island, I catch myself scouting for humpbacks amid the whitecaps below. The thing is, it’s late November, and the whales are most likely back in Antarctic waters, or at least well on their way. This, 2020, has been such a strange year, though, I almost expect to observe oddities in nature, too. Thankfully, nature has been, for the most part, moving along at her own pace, focused on her own challenges and unconcerned with those we humans have been facing.
The wind persists in whipping up the sea, then a cloud temporarily obscures the scene. If a tardy whale is charging through the waves below, I fail to see it.
It’s been a year since I’ve set foot on Lady Elliot, a paradisiacal coral cay 80km northeast of Bundaberg and on the southern tip of the Great Barrier Reef. Pandemic lockdown restrictions meant the island's eco resort closed to guests from March 30 through June 12, 2020. My husband and I had plans to visit in late July, when humpbacks are frequently spotted from both the air and shore, gracing these sub-tropical waters and filling them with song on their migratory journey from Antarctica. However, circumstances forced us to postpone the trip.
While we missed whale season, every time of year is alluring in its own way. Now, for example, female green and loggerhead sea turtles are coming ashore nearly every evening, attempting to nest. Breeding and nesting birds – for example, black and common noddies, crested terns, and red-tailed tropicbirds, which only nest in two places on the Great Barrier Reef) – are abundant. And the water is 26 degrees, which means we’re able to prolong our snorkelling sessions.
Revisiting turtles
Our first dip is in the lagoon, which, thanks to a mid-day high tide, is open when we arrive. Shuffling sideways the first few paces, I succumb to its waters, gliding above an expansive bed of healthy hard coral, sea cucumbers, the occasional anemone, and a kaleidoscope of fish. Along the way, a few sea turtles come into view: one feeds, another rests, another leisurely swims nearby. The first two are uninterested in our presence, but the latter is curious, drifting in our direction and lingering for 30 seconds or so before changing course.
A green turtle in the Lady Elliot Island lagoon
A few breaths beyond the buoy at the end of Channel One, we encounter nine juvenile green turtles plus a young hawksbill congregating together. Some sail around in seemingly aimless loops, while others chill out on the sandy lagoon floor, allowing fish to peck and help clean their shells.
It’s a scene I’ve been fortunate to witness here many times. Lagoon encounters such as these make Lady Elliot one of the best places to snorkel near turtles in Australia.
One of the turtles rises for air, and my breath escapes in a deep sigh. COVID-19 has sunken its claws into many lives and many places this year, but it hasn’t negatively impacted this destination.
Several turtles beyond the buoy at the end of Channel One
Afterwards, the incoming tide nudges me slowly back to shore, depositing me gently on the dazzling coral beach before a trio of recently refurbished reef units, including mine, #8.
Reef units 7-9
Lovelier than ever
While Lady Elliot’s underwater world appears blessedly unchanged, the eco resort, which is powered by 100% renewable energy, has evolved since my last visit. Just prior to lockdown closure, all eco cabins were replaced with newly-constructed cabins designed by Eco Structures Australia, each with solid walls, louvred windows, sliding glass doors, power points, and Adirondack chairs for relaxing after a snorkel, dive, or walk around the island.
During lockdown, island caretaker staff worked diligently on renovating and refreshing the resort. Projects included installing a new floor and equipment in the kitchen; painting the restaurant and kitchen; extending the eastern deck; putting a new roof over the beachfront dining room; transforming the reception/office/shop area; and completing the ongoing renovation of the dive shop and reef units. They also further improved safety in the island’s snorkelling areas, introducing more snorkel lines and resting stations.
A new eco cabin at Lady Elliot Island Eco Resort
Turtle trek
The next morning, we leave our unit just before sunrise for a counter-clockwise walk around the island. As we near the runway’s northern end, turtle tracks appear before us, starting about halfway up the beach and disappearing into the vegetation. The soft whoosh of shifting sand reveals a turtle is indeed there.
Most turtles come ashore to nest – which involves digging a body pit, excavating an egg chamber, laying 80-120 eggs, and covering the chamber – during a night time high tide. High tide was around midnight last night, so this green lady had a late start. Perhaps she came ashore earlier, in a different location, and deemed that site unsuitable? Whatever her earlier movements, she’s soon off again, making the laboured trek back to the shallows and deeper waters beyond as we observe from a respectful distance. Activities staff will assess the area where she’s been to determine if her nesting efforts were successful.
A female green sea turtle makes her way back to sea after a nesting attempt.
After completing our island loop, we don snorkelling attire and set off diagonally across the island to the Coral Gardens entry point on its western side. The ocean embraces me, welcoming me to an enchanting city of coral, where fish dance beneath the spotlight of the sun and turtles sail past like superheroes. I don’t see the female from earlier, but I expect the ocean is hugging her, too – helping ease her worries and reminding her, in soothing whispers, of high tides and easier times to come.
Planning your visit:
Turtle nesting season on Lady Elliot runs from November through March each year and turtle hatching season from January through May. For more information on the island’s turtles and how to visit, check out Lady Elliot Island Eco Resort’s website.
Sea turtle prints/wall art and other turtle merchandise featuring some of these images and others are available to purchase.
More stories on Australia's underwater adventures:
Where to snorkel near sea turtles in Australia