A dog's dream: off-lead beaches in the Tweed
A joyful addition to the school zone sign in the sleepy village of Fingal Head, NSW, suggests poems should proceed, instigating a smile whenever I wander past it. And what better place for acting on this idea than Fingal’s bewitching headland? Formed from an ancient lava flow, it gazes out over inky interlocked basalt columns and a stretch of water known as the Giants Causeway, towards the rocky, whale-like form of uninhabited Cook Island, 500 metres offshore.
Moving through remnant coastal rainforest towards the headland’s seven-metre-high sandstone lighthouse, my five-month-old Cavoodle, Moondance, propels us steadily, and I realise my hands will be far too occupied to hold a pen when we reach it. He endeavours to veer us onto a sandy track leading south to Dreamtime Beach and its eventual off-lead stretch … a place we’ll definitely explore later. For now, though, the headland is the best place to observe the full moon ponder its own reflection in the surf as the sun peeks over the horizon.
Passing the lighthouse and moving down the track, towards the precarious cliffs, I clutch his lead more fiercely, periodically re-checking the security of its clip to his harness. If he were to break free and chase a leaf or seagull as it disappeared out over the crashing waves, our time together would be over before it had properly begun. With this in mind, we also keep well away from the edge … so much so that the interlocked volcanic columns that inspired the area’s name remain hidden from view.
On the headland at Fingal, overlooking Cook Island
Breathing in the wildness and extraordinary beauty before me, I crouch down on the rocks, beside my pooch, who appears similarly transfixed by the sea. When the blinding eye of the sun demands attention, we cautiously wander around the headland, past clutches of golden wildflowers, back to the rainforest track. It’s time for my dog to have his way.
Walking on one of the Fingal headland tracks
Off-lead beach holiday
The Tweed Shire boasts 11 beach areas where dogs are permitted on lead. However, Moondance’s favourite spots are those where he’s permitted to run free and chase a ball. There are rules, of course. For example, I must supervise him, keep him away from dune areas (they’re home to threatened shore birds), and remove and dispose of his poo as I would anywhere. And I have to keep his lead handy, which helps me keep him close if I notice a dog I’m unsure of or any other potential danger. But my pup doesn’t seem to mind too much when I temporarily pause his fun. Give him even 10 minutes to wet his paws in the surf and chase a ball, and his smile radiates brighter than sun on sand.
Here are my favourite off-lead beaches in the Tweed Shire.
Dreamtime Beach
The off-lead section of Dreamtime Beach begins 500 metres south of Fingal Head and stretches several kilometres south along Wommin Bay to the Murphys Rd access point in northern Kingscliff: a considerable distance if your dog is up for it. As Moondance is still quite young, I’ve been keeping his recent jaunts there fairly short, but I did walk all the way from Murphys Rd to Fingal Head and back with my late dog Reesie at least a couple times. The headland is an exquisite spot to rest and scout for dolphins, turtles, and, in winter, humpback whales before heading back, and you can bring a picnic or detour to the Fingal General Store for refreshments, if you wish.
Entering Dreamtime Beach from the Murphys Rd access near Kingscliff.
A beautiful element of this off-leash stretch is that there’s no obvious development along the way. Yes, you can see the buildings of Kingscliff in the distance when walking south, but any houses present behind the dunes are completely hidden from view. You really are in a natural wonderland.
Playing on Dreamtime Beach
As with the other off-lead beaches mentioned here, Dreamtime isn’t patrolled, plus its waters are known to be dangerous. If you wish to swim, head for one of the Tweed Coast’s patrolled areas. However, these areas aren’t dog-friendly. So, beyond wetting your feet and your dog’s paws, it’s better to leave ocean dips for trips when your dog isn’t accompanying you.
Access points: Fingal Head, Fingal Rd, Murphys Rd (Kingscliff)
South Pottsville Beach
During his final year, this beach, which begins 200 metres south of Pottsville Beach’s main bathing area and stretches south to a point 200 metres north of Black Rocks, seemed to be Reesie’s favourite ball chasing spot in the Tweed. He was incredibly happy at other off-lead beaches, too, but there was something special about his level of enthusiasm here. I’d planned to stay close by it for a week this past March and take him there a couple times a day, but the pandemic kept that from happening.
I took Moondance for a brief session on it recently, and he seemed to love it, too, but no more than his other beach dalliances.
Moondance rests for a moment on South Pottsville Beach.
Like Dreamtime, this off-lead beach feels wonderfully natural and wild. Here, there are no visible buildings in any direction. And 200 metres isn’t too far for a healthy dog to amble before being freed from the lead for a while.
Access: South of Mooball Creek. After crossing the bridge, turn left off the Tweed Coast Road and park.
South Cabarita Beach
While the aforementioned beaches are our family favourites, South Cabarita Beach is also a fun place for a ball chasing session. Moondance hasn’t visited this beach yet, but Reesie definitely appreciated his time there – particularly after spending a half hour or so atop the nearby headland, patiently waiting as his Dad and I scouted for humpback whales. The off-lead area stretches 200m south of Norries Headland to a point one kilometre north of Cudgera Creek.
Access: Park at Norries Headland Lions Park and take the South Cabarita Beach access track.
Reesie catches a ball on South Cabarita Beach.
After this and his other recent beach/hinterland getaway, I’ve noticed Moondance smiling more frequently. I expect he believes his parents will take him to off-lead beaches as often as they can. And he’s absolutely right.
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